DANY BRUCH
For sure the best wave and most adrenaline-filled ride was the last one I took with Boujmaa. We‘d already had a break on the Baxter’s boat when the wind died out and the rain came. Before we had to go in over the rocks, I remember saying to Bouj, “Come on, let’s have a last one”, so we tried to get a couple more. We were in the perfect spot when a bigger and super-clean set came in. I remember pumping to get some speed and as soon as I was moving I rushed to get in the straps.
A second after, my board started to get lifted from the speed. It felt like the wave was rolling away under my feet and I couldn’t make the drop. I remember being in the air, having Bouj about 1.5m away from me downwind. I was holding on to the boom almost with my teeth so as not to let go.
I basically air-dropped from the top of the wave down a few meters onto the face. If I’d let go I would have killed myself and Bouj too. I couldn’t believe it when I made it. The adrenaline dominated everything! When I kicked out of the wave, Bouj and I were screaming for a while! It was a sick moment I have to say, but I’m thankful and really lucky not to have had any wipeouts on my first day at Jaws. That’s something I’ll still have to figure out some time, but I’m not worried about it too much now – I know I’ll experience it sooner or later!