Good ‘ol Wikipedia says that ‘a wave is a disturbance or oscillation that travels through spacetime, accompanied by a transfer of energy. Wave motion transfers energy from one point to another’.
Maxime Van Gent , Tatiana Howard, Olya Raskina and Shawna Cropas share a relationship with waves. Their lives are dedicated to the pursuit of wind and swell. So what’s their attraction to these disturbing oscillations? Shawna Cropas explains. Pic Greg Hoxsie
Waves are dazzling forces of nature that directly connect us to planetary forces and our inner selves. It doesn’t get much more Zen than that. Watching surf peeling towards shore, we’re reminded that waves are foreign visitors sent by storms beyond our horizons. Anyone addicted to swell becomes highly aware of the world and its global weather patterns. This kinetic liquid energy touches all shores without discrimination. Waves are respected and feared for their beauty, form and shear strength. Waves are a brief movement of energy, both tangible and illusive, a pulse we try to catch before it crashes into oblivion. When we are in flow with these ocean rhythms, it’s the state of being ‘in the moment’ that most surfers and wave sailors crave. Open Ocean surf remains unpredictable and free of our control, which is why it is both so exciting and addictive. Wee cannot fight the ocean yet it has the ability to knock us to our knees. The spectacle of an angry ocean is no laughing matter, whether you’re at her mercy traveling the open seas, on land or just enjoying her more playful moods. Rogue waves are real and potentially tragic dangers. Tsunamis can wipe out a whole coastline and Pipeline has broken the necks of even the most fearless challengers. Yet challenge this force and ourselves we do. Like a sort of liquid rodeo. Wave sailors are just trying to grasp a few seconds of a rolling moment and ride as long and as well as possible. Any time in the waves is exciting and gets the heart pumping a little faster, whether you’re catching your first knee-high sets or smacking mast-high lips. The first thrill can be the beginning of a lifelong addiction.