THE POINT
Mast high plus waves greeted us. Reeling perfection with what looked like just enough wind for me to sneak out with a 5.0. Nobody was around – we knew it was just a matter of time until there were more people. Josh and I snuck out there and the wind shifted and really picked up. Perfect 5.0 weather as if I had planned it all along.
Ponta Preta is truly unique. You come flying into the wave from way behind the peak initially. Wave selection is paramount. There won’t be a second chance if you choose wrong. There is an upper peak that does not connect to the point that breaks off the fearsome left into the bay upwind. It usually shows bigger but is shorter and offers no mercy for incorrectly judging where to drop in and run for the exit.
Josh headed up to this area straight away, and the next thing I knew he was dropping into an over mast high bomb and it exploded him into the rocks. Round 1. Meanwhile at the point, I was left all alone and picking off several serious gems. As I watched Josh peel himself off the rocks and walk his gear a full 200 metres to launch again, wave after wave rolled through the point, and connected all the way through.
Josh launched again and went directly to the upper zone again – and essentially repeated precisely the same sequence again. Big bomb and too deep with the exit denied and directly back to the rocks. Round 2. He expertly dealt with the situation, but as he did, even more epic nuggets rolled straight to me at the point. Again, I was all alone at firing Ponta Preta. This trip was going better than I could have possibly imagined!! I could even afford to be selective and let the first few through, get on the best waves of each set and head out for more. Josh launched yet again and this time he stuck with me at the point and we traded off like it was a class reunion of sorts, which it was, and always will be whenever it happens because these moments like we were experiencing are in fact rare, and sacred to us both. We both sailed for over an hour more before the crowds turned up and we shared and carved to our heart’s content until the swell slowed down a bit and we called it a day.
DREAM TIME
The rest of the trip was mainly surfing – in truly epic waves – and a few sessions at some new locations, which will not be named here. New friends were made with Josh welcoming a crew of workers from many different corners of the world. Big shout out to the Irish lads, Duncan Knox and friends, those were good times and I’m always encouraged to see the next generation pursuing the dream. It’s clear that Cabo Verde remains a location where one can search for and find it. Sessions like we had create memories for a lifetime. Even after all these years, nothing truly replaces the feeling of lining up a long clean green wall at the place that I first sailed over 21 years ago in awe that it even existed. A place that offers an unlimited level of riding, matching the perfect canvas with simple yet bold lines. Iconic images and historical moments in our sport etched forever in our memories.
It’s impossible to consider any yearly cycle without even just a few moments with my many friends at the place we all love to shred in peace and we’ll always be coming back for more. Ponta Preta, the African Dream.
“ A solid swirling system was due to send swell as if on cue. ”