Scott McKercher
So the question begs to be asked. Was it worth it? It was a question I asked myself on the way there. Why am I causing myself all this angst? The answer? Absolutely! We tasted what giant Cloudbreak can be about and on the boat trip back to the mainland, Philip was already talking about coming back for when the next real big one hits. He wants to feel the rush, combined with fear of a dropping down a massive one. It looks like Philip’s got a dose of the adrenaline junkie in him like Pozza, who also mentioned the season wasn’t over and we’d have to get back for when it really turns on.
These sort of moments let you know you’re ALIVE. It’s an intensity that stays with you for a long time or even a lifetime, reminding you that you’re not here forever and you have make the most of every opportunity. For these were no ordinary moments.