THE WAVE!
My first waves, I felt dialed in with timing from the previews day but I had in my mind that today was going to be the day to score one of the big bombs and try to go as deep as possible! It didn’t take very long to happen; my 4th wave was the one! I went for two waves before but somehow I didn’t manage to catch them. Finally I looked behind me and spotted a huge swell approaching . I was not in the perfect position but I knew this was the biggest wave I had seen all day and it could be one of those waves that I have dreamed of riding all my life. So I took my chance and went for it even though I knew I was a bit late for the west bowl. I just had to go because I knew I would regret it if no other set like this would come again, you have to take these chances when they come along!
Once I started flying down the face of the wave I realized how late I was and I had to improvise the bottom turn and make it a lot earlier than I expected because the lip was coming like a mountain over me. I had two options, either attack and hit the lip to be able to gain speed or go straight and most likely get completely destroyed by the lip. I took my chances and turned my board as fast as I could towards this huge lip; there was not even time to correct the sail position I just wanted to get up there as fast as possible to escape from potential disaster!