EXPLORATION
The dirt road out of town leads to the mystical ‘north shore’, almost immediately a series of world-class reef breaks are revealed. The terrain is barren, think Mad Max not Avatar, but there’s beauty in its otherworldly spaces and age has not changed its wildness. The driving is the sort of stuff Top Gear specials are made of; rental cars come here to die. It’s wave sailing on the edge of the earth. The varied coastline offers options for most wind and swell directions. Even with the advent of better forecasting, the daily hunt for the best spot remains part of the attraction for sailing here if you want more than a windsurfing resort experience. But Fuerteventura has that too, the south of the island offers flat water and consistent winds and now, new hotels and accommodation options to service the sailing in Sotavento, Costa Calma and Risco Del Paso. Criss-crossing the island, north to south on a wind hunt has become easier with upgraded roads, but has the increased infrastructure dulled the island’s personality? Increased tourism can make it harder to get under the skin of a place and let it reveal its true self. I walk down to the beach by the harbour, unfinished developments tell a tale of expansion too quick. The island’s changes have pros and cons, but it has still retained that quiet, unhurried manner, that feeling of escape. The long coastline still feels open to adventure. You could stick with one spot and lock in to whatever tack or degree of side-shore you prefer or explore the variety on offer. Local shaper and guru, Bouke Becker of Witchcraft Windsurfing tells me, “We have more spots along the east coast where you could sail when Glass beach is working, but hardly anyone goes there…. In winter time we have so many point breaks that we hardly ever sail side-onshore conditions.”