TRAPPED
I rolled over the first wave and all I could see were walls of water stacked on the horizon, one behind the other. I knew I was in trouble. I took a huge breath and jumped off my rig and tried to swim to the bottom.
I came up for air and then went down again and again. Before too long I found myself on the inside. I thought this nightmare was over but it was just the beginning of my horrible experience!
If I was on a surfboard I could have just surfed in on the whitewater but, because I was swimming and had no flotation, I was at the mercy of the current.
I was getting dragged out again. I even tried to put my feet into the shallow reef and even dive down to try and hang onto a coral head, but it was impossible. I was getting sucked right back out in front of the Sunset left, which is the most insanely dangerous place to be.
When Sunset is maxing-out, all the water from the inside is sucked out through this little channel causing an incredibly strong current. Within a few minutes I was already back in the impact zone with yet another bomb set breaking through the lineup at Sunset.
I took a breath and was under again and again, getting pushed back inside only to find myself back at the sunset left again just minutes later. At this point I started to panic! I couldn’t get to the beach and I couldn’t get to the safety of the outside waters.