After a few hours of sailing there were either moments of brilliance or moments of despair. I tried to pick off the medium-size waves, as they seemed to have the best shape and had more of a tendency to not close-out as much. The only problem with choosing the mid-size waves was it left you exposed to the larger set waves once you kicked out the back of the waveI remember on one occasion I was on the inside after finishing my ride and the next wave was already starting to wall up. As I made my way out I could see that I was not going to make it over the wave. I decided to try duck dive my equipment through the barrel and save my gear. I’ve tried to duck dive my gear a few times but the wave needs to be quite hollow and not too massive. On this occasion I managed to thread the mast perfectly through the barrel, grab the nose of the board with one hand and the boom with the other and just popped out the other side perfectly.
