9:00AM The wind had filled in slightly and I was able to abandon the ski and set my sights on catching the next bomb by myself.
The one thing I need to talk to you guys about is windsurfing these sorts of waves with little or no wind. It’s extremely difficult. Once the windsurf gear is moving faster than the apparent wind, negative pressure accumulates between the water and the bottom of the sail. This forces the sail upward and reduces your power ability. That’s why when you see me bottom turn I’m trying lay the sail over as close as possible to the water without hitting it. Not many people would have experienced this phenomena and it makes it super difficult to cut back as the sail wants to move towards the barrel of the wave, reducing your power to zero. You’re basically holding onto something that is creating negative power. Like trying to ride a bike without a chain. That’s what’s it’s like. Annoying as shit!
Don’t get me wrong — I was having the biggest rushes of my life out there with a grin from ear to ear that is still on my face even as I write this story now. Just thought it would be nice to give you some insight into the technical aspects… and also why I was maybe not doing better out there.