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MARCILIO BROWNE
I scored two or three waves that felt very clean with a solid size. The biggest and cleanest one I rode was the wave I shared with Kauli. It felt like a carpet all the way from start to end, it was also a pretty long ride for Jaws – we both had two amazing turns. That wave made it all worth it.
Antoine Martin had a real gnarly wipe out. I saw it from the boat and for a second I thought he could have been hurt bad. He was very deep, on a set wave and had the lip to break behind him, which was not a good place to be at all. I also got scared another time when I went for a bottom turn but hit a piece of chop and my fins popped out, I did a half-grubby, but luckily the board came back into place.
