MORGAN NOIREAUX
First time at Jaws Morgan – what were your thoughts running up to it!
MN – I really didn’t have much time to think about it to tell you the truth. I’d sent a message to Kevin Pritchard earlier asking if he was going, but after that I didn’t give it much thought. Then later on he called me and told me if I wanted to go he was waiting at Maliko. So I just grabbed a wetsuit and vest, hopped in my truck and ten minutes later I was on the ski. I’m really happy it happened like it did because had I known I was going since the previous day I probably wouldn’t have slept well and would have been super nervous. With how it happened, I was nervous the five minutes that I was driving up and then it was go time.I’ve never really pushed myself to go to Jaws since I don’t have a ski. I just figured one day the opportunity would arrive and I’d go. It just happened that the opportunity was yesterday.
How did it feel, compared to other big days you’ve had?
MN – The only thing that really felt different is all the people in the channel on jetskis and boats and all the people watching on the cliff. Of course when your sailing out in the channel and there is someone riding a wave you also realize just how big it is. I remember watching a wave of Jason’s and thinking, “damn how many masts is that”? You hear so much about Jaws and I’ve lived five minutes away from it my whole life that I kind of knew how it would work. The only scary thing is all of the horror stories of the west bowl closing out on you haha, so I was trying to avoid having that happen to me on my first session.
What was your stand out moment of the day?
MN – I think the first wave I got was really special just because it was the first one I ever got at Jaws. Another cool moment was on one of the bigger waves I managed to score; it had a really nice long wall to it. Having that large a wave stand up in front of you is a really cool feeling.
Have you any other big wave spots you want to ride?
MN – Cloudbreak is the only one that really comes to mind. I don’t really want to ride a wave just for the sake of it being big, and Cloudbreak when it’s big looks amazing.
Morgan your strong style seems to belie your age, what are your tips for big wave turns?
MN – Commitment is the main thing in big waves, really laying the sail down in the bottom turn and ripping the board around at the top, just really commit to what you’re doing.