HEADING SOUTH
Next day Figueira da Foz – 30 nautical miles; then Nazaré – tougher, less wind – 35 nautical miles.
At São Martinho do Porto there’s an unusual occurrence: someone is actively unhelpful. I soon realise that it isn’t to spite me, but to be unpleasant to those who want to help me. It works out fine of course, splendidly even, for there are an infinite number of plan B’s and another one works out involving, incidentally, another delicious roast dinner. Perhaps some good will have come from the incident. At the very least I believe it, or something similar, was necessary. It ends up as another heart-warming two day stopover.
A hop to Peniche gets the miles rolling again. Then 40 nautical miles to Guincho, nicely coinciding with a very small swell, and allowing for full enjoyment of Cabo da Roca – mainland Europe’s most western point. Cascais is a nice short hop. Then 25 nautical miles to Sesimbra, tucked in behind the very beautiful Cabo Espichel. The headland is studded with caves, the last and most exposed of which is an echo chamber for Atlantic swells and periodically lets out a low pitched “boom!”, audible for miles and that could easily be mistaken for artillery fire.