ANTOINE MARTIN
This wipeout was very different to the last big one I had at Jaws. I went up to Pe’ahi super confident this day. This is not my first time up there so I was not scared. So far I have not made any aerials so this time my plan was to try to hit the lip! After my first two waves I was getting frustrated. The aerial was all that was on my mind. That was my goal! My third wave was one of the biggest of the session. As I wanted to do an aerial I went deep to be sure I was in the right position to hit the west bowl.
I wanted the aerial to be a real one at Jaws, not just a jump at the end of the wave, but I was too late and had no choice but to go straight and do the same as the last wipe out I had there. Once I let go of the equipment the wave took me straight to the bottom! I hit the reef, was dragged and then got stuck in a cave inside the reef for about a second. I had to push and swim my way out because my legs were stuck in the cave. I was worried that by the time I hit the surface another set would already be right on me. I decided to swim for the surface rather than stay down to miss the next set on the head. When I hit the surface I just had enough time to take one breath and took the next wave on the head. I was rolled around again but I made it up to the surface and the jet-ski was there to grab me. My gear was destroyed and I went back to the channel to join all the other guys on the skis. I felt weird because I could not hear anything. I think from top to the bottom it is fifteen to twenty feet of water. I did not have time to equalize during the wipe-out so I think my ears just blew! I could not hear anything for at least ten minutes. My head was painful, so I just stayed on the ski and watched the guys sailing. I stayed for about twenty minutes and then went back on the ski to Maliko Gulch where we launch. I was surprised to get so pounded on such a relatively ‘small’ day. The locals told me when it is ‘small’ the bowl is still very heavy and it can actually push you further down. I still want to go back there and try again to hit an aerial! I really want to do this! I am trying to learn from my mistakes and learn from my two previous experiences!