KAI LENNY
The biggest wave I caught that day was a bucking bronco of a ride. It was when I was out all alone before everyone showed up and all I was thinking was; ‘just don’t fall.’ Days like that, where the swell is north and the wind is more northerly, make it incredibly sketchy to ride with confidence. If you go too deep there is no bottom turning around the section. The avalanche will catch you and eat you alive! As I was dropping into that wave I was going so fast my fins began to hum, my eyes started to widen, my worst fear was spinning out to have the entire wave break over me. I initiated my bottom turn and saw the wave way, way over head. The wave wasn’t the type to run along the reef; because of the north in the swell it exploded as I reached mid face and the spit shot me even faster into the channel where I probably went as fast as I have ever gone on a windsurfer. That’s when I saw Swifty and Polakow and gave them a wave to come out! Aloha, Kai.