GAIN
The second session was much better. Unfortunately, there were no more massive sets like that one, but still plenty of 6-8 footers and Guilly, Boujmaa and I had the place to ourselves. You could see that Bouj had been there before as he was just playing around with the lip, timing sections perfectly and really looking in tune with the place. Guilly took a few waves to get the hang of it but after an hour or so was getting sick barrels. I had an amazing time once I learned the timing of the wave and the position where it was going to break. It was still hard to time perfectly as there was almost no wind on the wave, so you had to decide on your timing as you dropped into the wave, and just go with it. If you went too late, you had no chance of getting around the section and if you went too early, you couldn’t stall your bottom turn or you would get stuck and cleaned up by the barrelling lip. It was an absolute playground for the three of us out there. We were having so much fun. I didn’t want to stop! That’s a problem that I tend to have, I just can’t tell myself to call it a day as you never know when you will be able to have that much fun again! In the end it was the sun that decided our playtime would be over as we had to head in to the beach before the boat driver was unable to see where he was going any more!
On the drive back to the house, Ben Thouard, our photographer, showed us some of the photos on the back of his camera and they were absolutely stunning. The colours and scenery, perfect light and awe inspiring power of the wave just came together and made some shots that I really don’t think you could replicate anywhere else in the world. I just can’t wait to go back!