MAN UP, MAN
It was just me and the Capitan, which sounds like something from Gilligan’s island, but with fewer coconuts. If coconuts are a metaphor, then mine were feeling quite small, and it wasn’t even cold. Now there comes a time in one’s life where you have to make the decision to man up and get out there or forever live the shame of missing the opportunity to experience something special. I’d like to say I made that decision then and there, but I didn’t. Instead I rigged up not because I was brave, but more out of guilt. The captain was there just looking at me, as if to ask “Well, are you gunna?” He sounded very much like my brother.
Once on the water I slog over to the line-up. The wind is really light! The first thing I see is Philip and Scotty getting mowed down by a massive set because they were caught on the inside after taking smaller waves, you know the 10 foot ones! Seriously, are those the smallest? A quick mental note to self. Don’t get caught on the inside! With some sort of mad logic I decide that taking the larger waves is the best course of action because it means there aren’t any bigger ones behind them. Eventually I get out the back, jibe and there I am getting ready to go. I kept asking myself what the hell I was doing.
I look over my shoulder and there’s this huge slab building behind me. I look forward and the boys start waving me to go. I start coaching myself “Just get to the bottom, Tommy, just get to the bottom … ”
You wouldn’t believe the speed I was travelling down the face of this monster. I’ve done some fast runs on slalom gear, but that’s smooth sailing compared to this. The chop on the face is ruinous. The breaking wave behind you is deafening, the clarity of vision regarding the useless life you’ve led to this point disconcerting. But, once you make a bottom turn – and then a cutback and then another and then another – you can’t get enough. Adrenaline Junkies beware! Cloudbreak is beautiful, powerful, long, smooth and fast.