Things go her way and a few weeks later we are crossing the Alps, a quick stop at Lake Garda and then further into the heart of Tuscany. At least the wind forecast is not as bad as I imagined; a storm is on its way and unbeknownst to my girlfriend I have brought my small sails. While we cruise in summer like weather through the curvy roads there is not much sign of any storm though. The stunning scenery invites us to do Cappuccino stops behind every road bend or to explore castle after castle. When it gets too hot we jump in one of the many streams to cool down. By late afternoon we arrive in Livorno at the Mediterranean Sea. The ocean’s surface is like a mirror and the water is amazingly clear – the calm before the storm. As it starts to get dark, black clouds appear on the horizon. Full of excitement for the coming day, I fall asleep.
The next morning the weather has changed, onshore winds have swirled the sea. During the next few hours the wind picks up further and within no time I am looking at solid but chaotic three to four metre waves. My first try is a spot right in Livorno called Tre Ponti. The locals are excited but the wind is too onshore to enjoy the wind and waves. After a short and rather disappointing session we drive further south. Along the coastal road, cars stop everywhere to photograph the exaggerated sea. Even though I couldn´t find a suitable spot yet, I am thankful my girlfriend took me here. A look at her face tells me I better not tell her so. My next try is a spot called Vada. And again the wind is almost dead onshore. It has got even windier and I doubt I can hold my smallest sail, a 4.2. Also the water colour is strangely white. Before I can spend any thought on that, Roberto, who has a surf school a few hundred meters north, speaks to me. He says the coast makes a little bend right where his school is. The problem is there is no parking so I would have to sail along the coast and around a little jetty to get there. All my hope is in his words so I trim the 4.2 as flat as possible and sail up the coast towards Lillatro. He was right, the coast does make a tiny bend, which is enough to create pretty decent Pozo-esque conditions – just with bigger and better waves. When I return completely exhausted to the beach, Roberto proudly shows me his surf school. “Many people leave their gear here as they mostly sail at this spot anyway”, he says. “And what about the water colour?”, I ask. “Ah, that is because of the run-off of the big factory. But it’s not too bad, we are in this water for decades already.”
The next day the wind has dropped quite a bit and turned further north too. Roberto sends me a message, “Today Marina de Cecina is the place to be!” By the time I arrive there are a few guys out already, enjoying the mellow 5.3 starboard-tack conditions. Not my favourite type of sailing but the atmosphere in front of the pine trees is great so I give it a go. I have a fun session but the wind drops even more and a few kilometres up the coast is a beautiful beginner spot where my girlfriend can practice beach starts and planing. More and more familiar faces appear on the beach. Most of them I have only seen a few times at the parking lot in Haagkat in South Africa, nonetheless, a moment later we are invited for dinner. The happy crew demonstrates how to live La Dolce Vita, the sweet life. Delicious meals and wine are served and stories of mystic down-the-line spots close by are told. I had never expected to be welcomed here so warmly as the parking separation of Germans and Italians at South African spots is rather strict. The guys explain where else we should go on our trip and which places we definitely need to see. First of all, we ought to spend the night at the beach and park our van right next to the surf school – “It’s the best place you can find!” They are right and I realize I haven´t really missed cold wind, Guinness or crepes since we hit the road. The remaining time of our stay we cruise up and down the coast, find remote bays for freeride sailing or swimming, explore ancient towns like Volterra, Bolgheri and Sienna or join the tourist crowd in Florence. By the time we drive back home I have understood that once in a while it can be good to listen to your girlfriend!