DEATH OR GLORY
For the next few hours both sailors diced with the grinding waves as the swell peaked right on low tide. Up by the river mouth, wedgey ‘A-Frame’ lefts were reeling down the sandbar in perfect geometrical fashion, with plumes of spray flying high into the air. Ross and Blacky were both hungry to snag the big peeling sets, but nailing the right swell, with the gusty winds, surfers and shifty peaks made it tricky to pick-off the cherry waves.
When the sun occasionally poked through and the surf lit up, the whole line-up would not have looked out of place in Cape Verde. Maybe not quite the size, quality and water temperature as the surf off the coast of Africa, but compared to your average day in the UK this was right up there with the very best waves I have seen.