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I managed to get about 3 or 4 midsize waves under my belt before I was confronted with one of the biggest closeout sets I’ve ever seen at Sunset.
I found myself too far out to sea and facing with the craziest set of the morning. There was nowhere to go and I knew I was out of the safety zone.
I was on my own with not a soul in the water and was thinking to myself “what the hell am I doing out here?” I’d left my flotation suit at home and all I had was a pair of boardshorts. That was my third mistake of the trip!
