The flip side of this inherited disease is that my brain does not want to miss out on any big swells. The thought of missing double mast high Cloudbreak, trumps my indecisiveness and that’s how I keep the ball rolling from year to year. Two halves of my brain fighting constantly. The only people who really suffer from my affliction are my close friends, my parents and my girlfriend. That’s a lot of people actually. Sorry guys.
Lets just get right to the meat of it…
THE BIG DAY
I was like a kid in a candy store on the Namotu boat heading up to Cloudbreak. You never really know just how big it is until you’re there. I had two emotions rolling through me — nervousness and excitement. As we rolled into the line-up around 6am the first set came through. It was massive and a bunch of big wave specialists were already on it.
Light wind was blowing through the line-up, around 5 to 8 knots, and that was enough for me to start frothing at the mouth. Before anyone had time to digest the information I was already unrolling my sail on the boat and rigging.
Anything can happen here on days like this. It can be windy for 30 minutes then gone for the day. You have to be on the water in the line-up waiting, ready to pounce all day long, period.
