8:00 AM I got lucky just before 8am and rolled into my first bomb set. If you have not been to Cloudbreak before, then let me tell you a little about this amazing wave: The wall is so long and steep it looks like you’re dropping into a close-out. I convinced myself there was a high probability I was going down.
“ There is nothing easy about this place which is what makes it so special to me ”
As I raced down to the bottom of my first wave and made my first bottom turn I did not really know what to expect and the adrenaline was surging through my body. I made way for the steep section of the lip where I made an average cut back and then dropped back down the face again. The wind was so light it made it difficult to really get speed and power out of the board and sail but I did not care at all. The wave was so big and perfect it was the best thing ever as I rode this monster out to the channel with such contentment it’s hard to describe. There is nothing easy about this place which is what makes it so special to me.
