10:00AM The wind had now filled in to 10-12 knots and I was able to catch more waves and at times have some positive power in the sail. As the morning rolled on I was able to catch at least five of the 10 big bombs sets that came through that day.
I was also able to catch the biggest set of the day. I remember being on the outside and seeing this massive wall coming towards me. I had to be in the perfect spot. Just a few meters too far out and there was no way to catch it. Too far inside and you would never make the section. When you’re catching waves this size with very light wind you’re pumping like a madman out of the straps and as you start your committed drop into the wave you have to spring back and get into your straps perfectly otherwise you’re going down. I’ve done this many times at Jaws over the years and had good and bad luck trying.
I was able to get into the straps as I dropped in super late and charged through all the surfers that were scrambling to get out of the way. 12-foot surfboard guys were getting tossed all over the line-up as they swam down and under the breaking wave. Some of the guys that were more on the shoulder were screaming and cheering for me as I raced down the line to try and get around the first section.
As I made my first bottom turn I could still see flashes of brightly colored boards in the whitewater all around me. I rode this bomb all the way to the inside and felt the adrenaline tingling again through my skin. It was not so much the performance level of me windsurfing out there but more the rush to drop in deep and just make it to the channel.
It was so surreal to be the only windsurfer out there sharing waves with other surfers and exchanging short stories in the line-up after each wave.
As always, I got a bit too cocky and went too deep on one of the big sets and had to straighten out and 30 feet of white water came crashing over my gear. I held on to the bitter end but with power like that it’s just impossible to stay with your gear.
I had another rescue ski to help me and he was able to get in and get me after the set had passed. I put on my flippers and jumped off again near the inside reef and swam to my gear. You have to time your jump off the ski between sets and swim to the inside quickly. If you take too long and a set comes you’re going to get shredded on the razor sharp reef.
