Game time
The first set came through just minutes after getting to the outside and it was a screamer with a long wide wall stretching across the bay. I knew this was going to be an epic set so I decided to go even though I had only been there a few minutes. Dropping into my first wave on the outside was amazing and my adrenaline was pumping. The outside was a solid 10-foot but I knew the real wave wouldn’t start until I got to the inside. I dropped into the inside ledge and found myself in the perfect spot. A surfer was caught inside and was paddling back out and directly in my path. I had to manoeuvre around him, which now put me too deep. I pumped like a mad man and was so lucky to get around the section and into the safety of the channel. After that close call I spent the next hour feeling the place out and sharing set waves with the surfers.