Score!
By 1 p.m. the wind had really increased in strength and the surfers slowly started to come in. Usually they just stay out all day like at Ho’okipa when it is good but for some strange reason they all just paddled to the beach. Maybe they were freaked out by this windsurfing nutcase catching too many waves but for whatever reason it was, I liked it. By 2 p.m. I had 8 to 10-foot La Perouse all to myself. No one out at all. I could not believe my luck. Situations like this happen once every decade. You have to be in the right place at the right time and this was one of those occasions. The day kept going and by 4 pm I knew I would have this session all to myself. I had so many great waves that day it was pretty much a blur looking back at it now. For me personally, one of the best things I love about this wave is the anticipation. There is a small window between the outside wave and the inside wave where you can just relax for a few seconds, lean the sail back and look down the line and watch as this amazing wave begins to take shape. The wall of the wave extends out a long way, so you always think you are too deep. You have to hold yourself back a few seconds and trust that the wave will not close out. The wave is crystal blue in colour with a perfectly shaped tube to match and a long wall that you can set-up an air or cutback. It’s really an amazing place. As to be expected I got a little too comfortable and went down at the end of the day. Even though I was cut-up from head to toe, my gear obliterated from the shore-break and it was a 30-minute walk over sharp lava rock to get back to the car, I was smiling from ear to ear. What a day and a crazy session I will always remember; thanks for that phone call Erik!”
“ Watching this wave break when it’s big is one of the most beautiful sights you will see anywhere in the surfing world ”