I think there was some kind of sandbank right out the back that was making the huge swells break. It was massive out the back, I was about two miles offshore and it was still over double mast high or bigger. When I took off I was way under gunned. I needed a heavy big board; the speed that was generated dropping down the wave was ridiculous. I had to trust my fins! Luckily my rear thruster 19cm MFC fin was gripping very well, I had changed to it just before I went out. I needed it to get back outside! The best sets were upwind and after the big drop they broke and then reformed on the inside sandbar where they broke again into a nice peeling right. When you kick out of the inside, it is what I would call a ‘quiet spot’, well not quiet but less hectic. There was tonnes of current and huge sets coming at me so I was very lucky.