When I headed back out there was a vertical solid double mast high wave. I was about to gybe and then I just decided to jump it. I went for it and was just trying to get over the wave but it took me up. It took me so far out behind the wave I was already like eight metres high and then behind the wave it felt another eight to come back down, it was insane! It was a huge descent and the wave was sheltering the wind; I was just floating in the air and came down really heavily. The session lasted about an hour and I got to the point where I felt I was safe, had ridden a few waves and then I sailed in rather than risk everything. I did not want to break my gear, I want it to last another year. Swimming two hours would not be a problem but losing my gear was my main fear.
It was very humbling and at the same time exciting to be out there. I didn’t know what to expect but somehow I felt like I was in the right place at the right time. I know how the currents work and so I said to myself if it goes wrong I just have to surrender and let things be. It was an amazing experience and I hope I can have this sort of session every now and then. Jaws is scary, but this was beyond fear. I enjoyed the session for sure. I was pushing my limits and felt like it was one step further than I had ever been before and I had achieved a new high. That was as extreme as Moulay gets and history was made. Big Wednesday, the 4th of the 4th 2018. I will never forget that day.