The last time you spat out some food?
NB: About an hour ago, that avocado in my Panini was rock hard and a bit brown so I spat it out!
The last time you shredded a wave and thought to yourself ‘I am the man!’
NB: I am not sure if I have ever done that.As you know John, I was very, very critical of myself back in the day. I still am. It is rare that I ever came out of a wave ride and thought ‘yes I won this place!’ One session that springs to mind was back in Brazil in the PWA at Ibiraquera when I sailed against Victor Fernandez. I did not do the goitas or the takas that he was doing and I still managed to beat him with a couple of waves that I hit with perfect timing, it was good old fashioned hitting the lip and top turns. It was port tack as well and I remember the board I was riding and everything about that day. I remember coming off a couple of those waves and actually feeling like I could not have done much better. If I had a chance of beating Victor that is what I needed to do.Fortunately I managed it!
