DODGING SETS
The shore break at Jaws is massive and the set waves break about 30 feet out from the shoreline making it very difficult to get out at times. The angle of the beach is quite steep, so if you get too low on the rocks the backdraft of the white water will just suck you right off the rocks and right into the next breaking wave.
Once you decide to go you have to commit to it 100%. If you turn around half way you’re going to just get slammed with whitewater
Surfers launch by quickly timing the set waves and then running down the slippery boulders jumping over the next breaking wave and then paddling like mad to get out. Their boards are very long and extremely fast to paddle compared to a windsurfer with a tie down strap holding 20 to 30 pounds of equipment. This obviously gave us an extreme disadvantage. Compared to a 12-foot surfboard, paddling a windsurfer fully loaded is like trying to paddle a tree trunk. I sat as far down as I could possible get on the rocks to the point where I was almost going to get sucked off the rocks. Each time the whitewater slammed in I would have to raise the gear above my shoulders. I was getting super-tired from just doing that. I had to make a decision quick. I finally saw my window of opportunity and just went for it.
I scampered down as quickly as I could and then threw my equipment and myself over the next wave. I started paddling like a mad man but was hardly going anywhere.
After a short while I quickly turned my head to see if I was making any progress. From the corner of my eye I could see Robby running back up the rocks and at that point I knew there was another set coming. I paddled over the next wave and saw what the problem was. A set wave was rolling towards me and I thought to myself I could, maybe, just make it. As I got closer I could see it was going to barrel right over me and I tried to duck dive as best I could but it just picked me up and slammed me back onto the dry rocks. It felt like slow motion as I went over the falls backwards waiting for the impact. My legs were the first to hit and then my back. Within seconds after that I was back on the shoreline still holding onto my gear and trying not to get sucked back out. I remember looking up Robby who was right there and saying to him “well that didn’t go so well”. He then just started laughing and together we sat there for a moment in hysterics.
