First waves
I couldn’t wait to surf good waves again with nobody out, so as soon the anchor was down, I took my brand new 99novenove sup that I still had to test and jumped on the zodiac with the captain and went surfing. The waves were about 6 to 8 feet with a few bigger sets, it was big and heavy and lots of current on the pass sucking out to the ocean, but those lines of swell pealing on the coral bottom forming barreling perfect left waves were irresistible. I was alone on the spot and had to concentrate to keep my position and be careful not to be sucked too deep into the peak and get chewed up by the big south west sets. After 3 hours by myself on the water I was washed up by a big wave that broke my leash and my board was pushed onto the reef inside the lagoon and I got sucked out to sea by the current. Luckily the captain was on it straight away with a rescue mission and picked me up. The waves continued to pump for another 2 days about the same size, but got cleaner and I started riding them deeper once I had a better knowledge of the spot.