FRIENDS IN HARD PLACES
It’s a great feeling being out in the middle of the ocean on a huge day and sharing waves with one of your friends. As you fly down-the-line your eyes catch sight of the two ‘rocas’ sitting to your right hand side. Strands of long kelp pour off the base of the rocks as you make your bottom turn. The light wind, coupled with a slight cross-on direction, made it difficult to make any sort of power turns off-the-lip but, because the wave has such a long wall, it still made for an insane ride. The slight onshore component did nothing to affect the shape of the wave. The large sets pull tight as they pass the rocas and it’s just smooth sailing from there. By the second cut back you get your first full view of the huge bay as you pass the last rock. The largest sets that had a very wide shoulder broke all the way into the bay. You could easily carry on bottom turning 7 to 10 times before you would hit the inside sand bank.