Teahupo’o calling
When we arrive back on Tahiti at Papeete, the sun is barely rising. Jules, Sylvain and Mathieu have spent more hours on planes than on Tahiti so far but the rest has restored them. The wind forecast is good, it’s still light but seems to be picking up. It is around noon that Charly Boy picks me up by boat – yes, here you move more easily by boat than by car to get to Teahupo’o.
When we arrive at the peak, two or three surfers take a few waves before the wind forces them to go in. In the water, there is only Jules, Charly Boy, Sylvain and Matthieu. They have the spot to themselves, apparently a rare thing. I embark on to a boat skippered by Timo, a charismatic captain who was the first to have surfed Teahupo’o in the early 80s. I saw the session go down almost from the inside of the barrel I am so close to the peak at times. The swell is not west enough to offer classic Teahupo’o but there were still some southwest sets that offered an unforgettable show. What a joy to see this tower of water rise in front of you with such a thick lip like you’ve never seen before. Jules was pushing it the whole session, right on the edge of triumph or disaster while Charly Boy rode the wave of the day. After two hours of a dream session, maybe the session of a lifetime for some of our crew, it’s time to come in. Charly Boy has to get back to work (he’s not on holiday) and also because going to Teahupo’o by boat has a cost and more time at Teahupo’o = more money! If you want to surf or windsurf at Teahupo’o, a boat or Jet Ski is essential. Without it, you will arrive at the break tired and with not enough strength and energy to enjoy the waves.
The boys learn a similar lesson in the following days by going to the surf spot just in front of their house (about a kilometre paddle). After the paddle out and then the surf session, the return paddle is not so easy. On the other hand, for a good night’s sleep, it is the best!