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DREAM WAVES
For others it’s the challenge and potential danger that larger, maybe even giant surf provides? Big wave riding requires finding a balance amidst extreme elements that force you to face your fears and take calculated risks in scenarios that you perhaps see for only a few moments in one lifetime? Risk for reward to perform in-the-clutch. And then there’s the allure of the very long distance walls that can take you so far in one ride that you feel they’ll almost never end. Racing at full speed, climbing section after section to reach a destination so distant that, once you kick out, you look back to where you started and cannot fathom how it was possible to make it so far on one single wave.