PLEASURE PARK
So my reward was the pleasure of watching the three Canaries, flying across the water towards a wave I love to bits, but leaving me feeling a bit like a jilted lover. I hated it. It wasn’t all-time, the tide a little too high, but this wave has multiple personalities. Instead of being angry and nasty like it can get, it was playful and fun and the three of them were having a ball. Instead of the epic one reeling barrel, it presented multiple sections, more suitable to high performance sailing. And all of a sudden that level went sky high and inside-out. I couldn’t stand it anymore and after watching for an hour whilst icing my leg, I had to get out there with them.
Thankfully I managed to nurse my leg through the days without too much more swelling (using the ice cooling JC’s beers), although the pain dragged on for weeks and turned out to be some strange infection that kills nerves.