JC: Where is home for you right now?
AM: Always in the Caribbean. My head is always in the Caribbean but I spend a lot of time travelling. So my mind is in the Caribbean but my body travels! Home is everywhere!
JC: What was your worst wave wipe out?
AM: That was Jaws! When I crashed I took a huge breath, let my mind go and just rolled with it. It all happened so fast. During the session, after each wave I took there I was feeling more confident. I was heading up to the peak and I saw a huge set with nobody lined up for it. There were guys outside and some heading out with me. I was the most upwind and just said to myself – ‘Dude that is the wave I want!’ This was one of the biggest sets I had seen during the day and I really wanted to get a picture like Jason Polakow or Robby Naish with the big bottom turn and a double mast and a half high wave behind me.
I just tacked and said to myself – ‘I am going to do this’. So I went inside, inside, inside and then looked at the wave and said to myself – ‘Oh shit’. I was way too deep and this wave was more west than the others I had taken and a lot bigger. On this day there had been one peak and then nothing much else to ride but this one had a long wall. When I looked down the line I knew I had only 50% chance of making it. Because I had a production board I was not confident in my bottom turn because the wave is so fast at that size. I did not want to fall in the bottom turn so I had to wait a few extra seconds as I went down the wave to make it to the flats but it was too late. I had to go straight and took the wave on my head.