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MAURITIUS – FREERIDE PARADISE

Maria Andres gives a comprehensive guide to Mauritius, making a strong case for why she considers the Indian Ocean island a ‘Freeride paradise’.

Photos: Windylines.com / Tom Soltysiak, Vick Chumun, Toby Bromwich, Chris Zarfl, David Jeschke.

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Mauritius may be best known for its waves and honeymooners, but it’s much more than that. Yes its coral reefs transform ocean swells into some of the best waves in the world, but they also create idyllic shallow lagoons with crystal clear water, perfect for freeriding. And the nation’s cultural diversity translates into an extensive range of experiences and flavours, all while offering a true outdoor paradise to explore both on and off the water, welcome to the real Mauritius!

HISTORY

Located in the middle of the Indian Ocean, the island nation of Mauritius neighbours the French island of Reunion, to the east of Madagascar. It was discovered as a convenient stopping-off point along the trade routes from Europe to Asia, a position that has left a painful past, but today translates into its cultural diversity. First visited by Arab sailors, and later Portuguese traders, it was colonised by the Dutch, who gave the island its name. After the Dutch, came the French, who called it Ile-de-France, and made it into a strategic port for maritime commerce. It also became a port for the slave trade, with slaves being originally brought in from Africa, and later cheap labour being imported from India. These labourers populated the island and at one point up to 80% of the island’s inhabitants were slaves or their descendants. The island was eventually transferred into the hands of the British, who reinstated its original name of Mauritius and the country finally proclaimed its independence in 1968.

The imposing Le Morne Brabant mountain on the peninsula at the south-western tip of the island, is the instantly recognizable backdrop to Mauritius’s most popular windsurfing spot. But it also has a tragic past. Due to its abrupt geography, it served as a hideaway for those escaping slavery and on the day slavery was abolished, armed officers climbed the mountain to notify the escaped slaves of their freedom, but in a grave misunderstanding, the former slaves chose to plunge to their deaths from Le Morne’s steep cliffs as the ultimate resistance to being recaptured – a sad end to a dark moment in the country’s history.

With its storied history and cultural influences from so many parts of the world, Mauritius today is a melting pot that is one of the most peaceful countries in the world, offering a true taste of exoticism for visitors to enjoy.

PERFECT SETTING

Today, surfing and windsurfing are major attractions at various parts of the island, which isn’t hard to believe given Mauritius’s crystal clear waters, tropical temperatures, and postcard-perfect beaches – a perfect setting for any type of watersport. While Mauritius is best known for its world-class wave spots, such as the famed ‘One Eye’ and the moving mountains of Manawa, often forgotten are the shallow interior lagoons formed by these same famous waves. The same coral reefs that transform the ocean’s swells into a wave sailor’s dream, also protect the lagoon from the energy of the ocean, creating a shallow flat water paradisiacal playground, ideal for the everyday windsurfer to enjoy blasting around its crystalline turquoise waters.

The majestic coastline is hypnotizing with its lush vegetation and imposing mountains, the warm air inviting you to spend hours flitting across these natural pools. The shallow waters of the lagoons also make it a joy for all ages to enjoy the coastline, whether it’s paddling along the white-sand beaches, snorkelling the inner coral reefs, or simply enjoying the warmth of the tropical waters.

WINDS AND TIDES

The south-east trade winds blow best in the southern hemisphere’s winter, from April to October. This direction is side-shore from the left at Le Morne, the most popular windsurfing spot on the island, and usually blow between 15-25 knots in the windy season. The local effect of the Le Morne Brabant mountain tends to accelerate these winds slightly, so any forecast from this direction, even if only showing 10-12 knots on Windguru, will likely be enough to get you on the water. (Editor’s note – ION Club’s website states the best period at Le Morne is June to November with force 3-5 on average during summer in the southern hemisphere and about force 4-6 in winter, and that between December and April there can be heavy rainfall.)

The shallow interior lagoons are perfect for freeriding and you can stand up in most areas of the lagoon, but you do have to be careful when sailing at lower tides, as some coral heads in the lagoon become quite shallow then. It is best therefore to plan your sessions for mid to high tide to have a larger sailing area without worrying about touching your fin.

LE MORNE

The main windsurfing scene is based in Le Morne on the south-western tip of the island, in the shadows of the majestic Le Morne Brabant mountain. If you are looking for a windsurf family holiday, this is the perfect location to set up as a home base from where to do some trips to explore other parts of the island. Here is where you find the south-east trade winds accelerate, blowing side-shore across the protected lagoons, while the wave sailors launch from the same beach to sail out to the famed waves of Manawa and ‘One Eye’. The spot offers everything from your first steps on a windsurf board, to freeride blasting across the lagoon, to getting in a few jumps or trying your first wave rides on ‘Little Reef’, or sail out to Manawa to ride some mountainous waves that you will remember for the rest of your life.

In Le Morne, the lush vegetation, accentuated by the sharp escarpments of the mountain and the palm-lined white-sand beaches, provide a stunning backdrop as you blast across the protected waters of the lagoon. The green and turquoise hues mix below your board as you sail above the famed ‘Underwater Waterfall’. There is a reason this area is the focal point of windsurfing on Mauritius, simply for its natural beauty, as well as the consistency and variety of conditions it offers.

Here you will find a number of rental centres with gear rigged and ready to go, as well as surprisingly affordable luxury hotels located right on the spot. Fortunately for windsurfers, the windy season also tends to be the low-season for tourism, so there are some great package options to be had for the windsurf trip of a lifetime. If looking for lessons, the Ion Club offers plenty of windsurf, kite, and wing foiling gear and excellent instructors. The wind gently picks up throughout the morning, so it is a beginner’s paradise in the light breeze, and here you can catch a boat to the outer reefs for a beautiful early morning SUP or surf while it’s still glassy.

For flat water freeriding, both the kite lagoon on the upwind side of the peninsula, as well as the main lagoon from the public parking leading out to ‘One Eye’, in front of the RIU hotel, offer great flat water blasting, with an easy launch from a sandy beach with no shorebreak.

Whether staying at one of the hotels directly on the spot at Le Morne, or coming by car from La Gaulette, you will have a comfortable grassy rigging area with an easy launch, and a nice spot to spend the day at the beach out of the blowing wind. You can often find food trucks with delicious lunches at very reasonable prices right in the rigging area, and a great vibe on the beach.

WAVE SAILING

If wave sailing is your thing, you can gain your footing on ‘Little Reef’ located inside the lagoon, before venturing out to Manawa to ride the wave of a lifetime. On a smaller day, Manawa is the perfect beginner wave that you will share with dozens of other windsurfers, kiters, and wing foilers. Manawa is a fun, relatively forgiving wave when smaller, with a nice large channel to safely get back out after your ride, but once the swell picks up, it is a different story. Located over 1.5 km offshore, you will be able to ride the wave of your life as the spot turns into a mountainous ‘water park’c, but beware the strong currents pulling you out through the channel as the water from the breaking swell rushes back out to the open sea. Expert sailors can also head slightly downwind to the infamous ‘One Eye’, a fast, shallow wave that doesn’t permit mistakes, breaking onto an extremely shallow, sometimes dry, coral reef. This one is best left to the experts, but you can safely watch from the protected waters inside the lagoon.

OTHER SPOTS

Although the focal point for windsurfing is Le Morne, there is plenty of opportunity to explore, with beautiful locations scattered around the island, all working in different wind directions. Two of my favourites were Pointe D’Esny and Ile aux Benitiers.

Pointe D’Esny

Located in the south-east of the island, close to the airport, it works with any wind direction from SE to NE. The lagoon, or as the locals call it, ‘The Pool’, is wide and pristine, the perfect spot for freestyle, slalom, speed, or learning to kite, windsurf, or wing foil. It is always better with high tide, to more comfortably pass over shallower areas of the lagoon. Here you will find Specialised Kiteboarding School, who offer all kinds of foiling lessons, as well as an amazing 25 km downwinder excursion all the way to Ile Aux Cerf, a truly magnificent experience. There is a beautiful hotel, Preskil Island Resort, located right on the spot.

Ile aux Benitiers

We had the chance to enjoy sailing a couple of times in the beautiful lagoons behind Ile aux Benitiers, out in front of the village of La Gaulette. Visiting the island and the famous Crystal Rock is a must-do for many tourists visiting Mauritius, and there is no better way to do so than on a windsurfer. The lagoon here is deeper than most other spots in the area, so there are no worries about touching the bottom with your fin, and it is even deep enough to foil without any worries too. It works with different wind directions, including when the wind is too south for Le Morne to work, or too northerly on a slightly stormy day. The lagoon offers beautiful colours, even on a cloudy day, and it is a welcome change to sail with no crowds and deep water. Plus, there is just something special about the feeling you get gybing around the picturesque Crystal Rock!

Anse La Raie

On the northern tip of the island, Anse La Raie is a great alternative when staying at one of the many hotels on the north of the island. An outer reef is located 2.5 km away, creating a large protected lagoon that isn’t too shallow, perfect for blasting around in the side-shore winds. It is a very safe spot, and even has some small waves on the outer reef for more advanced windsurfers. There is an ION Club right on the spot, which has just recently reopened after the pandemic, but has only kitesurfing and SUP gear. Here you will have a slightly different experience to the south of the island, as you will be located in the north with more opportunities for nightlife in close-by Grand-Baie if you wish.

Belle Mare

Belle Mare, to the south of Poste Lafayette, also has a massive lagoon with pristine water, perfect for slalom, freestyle, and freeriding. Once again, it is best to windsurf only during high tide, to avoid the risk of hitting the bottom.

Poste Lafayette

The seaside village of Poste Lafayette offers excellent conditions for freeriding at high tide, located along the north-eastern shore of Mauritius. The spot doesn’t tend to be crowded, and you’ll have the lagoon to yourself, definitely a change of pace compared to the scene around Le Morne.

Bel Ombre

Located on the southern shore of the island, just a couple of minutes east of Le Morne, the spacious lagoon is another quality freeride spot with waves further out on the reef. Here you can also find good quality, yet affordable hotels directly on the spot. Yet again, be sure to time your sessions for high tide, as the lagoon gets pretty shallow for longer freeride fins.

BRING OR RENT

A number of airlines fly to Mauritius that allow you to bring your windsurfing gear with you for reasonable prices, but be sure to check the updated windsurfing fees before flying. There is no equipment storage at the beach, so if bringing your own gear, you will need to transport it with you in a rental car.

For rental, ION Club in Le Morne has a full range of boards and sails, rigged and ready to go (and the rental service includes a safety rescue boat in case anything goes wrong). Si-On.com also offers specialized high-end wave sailing gear rental, but you will be transporting it yourself to and from the beach.

AMAZING PLACE

Every single moment in Mauritius, I knew I was living one of those trips of my life, and I felt lucky and blessed to be there. After one month surrounded by the most stunning landscapes, gliding above turquoise waters, riding the waves of my life and watching the reef passing under my feet, feeling the sun in my skin and the fresh air in my face, tasting all of the exotic and tropical flavours and going to bed every night with the biggest of smiles and absolutely destroyed from windsurfing, I knew this was only the first of my trips to this amazing island! There is still so much I want to do in Mauritius!

WINDSURFING TIPS

Safety
When sailing out on the reefs of Manawa and ‘‘One Eye’, keep in mind that the safety rescue boat service ends at 5 p.m. Even if sailing inside the lagoons, it is a good habit to get off the water when the rescue service ends, as the wind can shut off abruptly in the evening, and the currents can pull you out through the channels into the open ocean. Safety is included for ION Club customers.

Storage
There is no windsurf storage offered at the beach, so when bringing your own gear, you have to rent a car and bring it to the beach every morning. When staying at a hotel right on the spot, you may be able to leave your gear rigged in front of your room out in the garden.

Spares
If you need any spares or accessories, you can find everything you need at the Tou Korek Surf Shop in La Gaulette. If you aren’t staying in La Gaulette, Kitesurf.mu also offers free delivery right across the island.

Wetsuit
From November to April, the Mauritian summer months, you will not need a wetsuit, as the water really warms up. From April to November, you may want to bring a shorty or at least a neoprene top, as the evening sessions can be a little chilly. I would recommend to always pack a long-sleeve Lycra as well, to protect from the sun during the longer sessions.

Windsurfing level
The beauty of Mauritius is that windsurfers of all levels can enjoy it, from complete beginner to expert. And best of all, you can all launch together from the same beach.

Kit
Wave boards 70 to 110 L, freeride 95 to 140 L. Wave sails 4.0 to 5.3, freeride 5.5 to 8.0.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

For the non-windy days, there are plenty of activities on the island that everyone can enjoy!

Boat trip

Take a boat trip to snorkel the clear waters around Crystal Rock, SUP with dolphins close to Tamarin Bay, or spot some majestic animals on a whale watching tour. A local kitesurfer and wing foiler that you will often find at ‘One Eye’, Bart (find him on Instagram at @mauritius_with_bart) is a great guide for all these activities both on and off the water. You can also catch a boat to surf the outer reefs, or simply to get close and watch the surfers do their thing.

Hikes
The Black River Gorges National Park is a magnificent landscape with plenty of scenic hikes and you will see waterfalls and endemic plants, rare orchids, and beautiful tropical birds. Hike the 7 waterfalls or visit the Tamarind Falls, or visit the Seven Coloured Earths in Chamarel for a truly unique experience. As a windsurfer, hiking up the 556m of Le Morne Brabant is a must-do hike that will offer breathtaking views of the turquoise lagoons you will be windsurfing on later on in the day, and watch the perfectly peeling waves breaking on the outer reefs of Manawa and ‘One Eye’. We recommend going with a guide and @vixvipservices can help you organize your adventures.

Port Louis
Founded in 1735 by the French Colonists, the city now boasts a rich multicultural element with strong Indian, Japanese, Africa, and European influence. The central market and the Port Louis bazaar are a great experience, where you can lose yourself among the tropical fruits and spices. Once in the capital, be sure to also visit China Town to try the excellent food or visit the curious modern pharmacies that will also sell you traditional Chinese herbs and medicines.

Seaplane
A Seaplane operates just a couple of kilometres from Le Morne, offering a spectacular view from above Manawa and ‘One Eye’, descending almost down to sea level for a truly unique experience. You’ll also get the opportunity to spot the famous Underwater Waterfall as the currents around Le Morne pull the sand into a one-of-kind display that can only be observed from the sky.

Local sights
The Triolet Shivala Hindu Temple, and the Market Flacq, a beautiful and colourful open-air market, are also must-do visits while in Mauritius. The Dutch Ruins, one of the first Dutch fortifications in Vieux Grand Port, is one of the oldest settlements on the island. If visiting Pointe d’Esny, be sure to also visit the wonderful market at Grand Port Bay in Mahebourg, where you will get a real feel for the true Mauritius with less outside influence.

Local food
The country’s multicultural mix makes for a truly spectacular culinary experience, with Hindu, Arabic, Creole, French, and Chinese influence. You can salivate just imagining the delicacies you will experience, whether it is a humble food-stand on the side of the street or an exclusive restaurant. Even in the supermarket you are sure to find a range of exotic ingredients to spice up your cooking. Of course, don’t forget to try the local Phoenix beer and the famous vanilla-scented Chamarel rum.

Beach barbecues
Once the weekend rolls along, you are sure to experience a different scene when arriving at the beach. The beaches and parks along the coast fill with music and good vibes as the locals share laughs and food throughout the weekend. You can feel the harmony as Hindus, Muslims, Creoles and tourists all share and enjoy the treasures of the beach and beautiful sunsets that Mauritius has to offer.

TRAVEL TIPS

Accommodation
If planning on basing yourself around the Le Morne area, you will have the choice between staying right at the spot in an all-inclusive hotel, or at hotels, villas, or rental houses in Le Morne or La Gaulette, the closest village.

Located just a couple of minutes drive from the windsurf spot, La Gaulette has everything you will need: a supermarket, restaurants, surf shop, sail repair, etc. To rent an apartment or villa, search on Sportihome.com to find rentals from local windsurfers that will be happy to share some local tips and advice with you, and maybe even join you on the water for a session. You can also find plenty of apartments on Airbnb, or get in touch with Tom and Verena at Si-On.com for multiple services for windsurfing vacations on Mauritius, including accommodation, car and gear rental.

The main windsurfing season also happens to be the low-season for tourism on Mauritius, so there are plenty of offers for package deals to hotels. The RIU hotel is located right on the spot at Le Morne, where you can keep your sail rigged in the grassy garden, and the ION Club is also located on the grounds of the hotel.

Food
Mauritius offers a great diversity of cuisine with a unique fusion influenced from its multicultural past, together with fresh fish and tropical fruit. I would recommend getting adventurous and exploring, both the street food as well as the restaurants.  At the beach you will find food trucks serving excellent fish dishes and fruit juices for very reasonable prices, so for refuelling between sessions this is a great option. When cooking in your apartment, the supermarkets are very well stocked, and have plenty of exotic ingredients to experiment with. Some windsurfers have also opened up restaurants in the area featuring local seafood, such as the delicious options at Wapalapam and Enso, as well as the offerings at Ocean Vagabond, but be sure to also explore the multitude of local cuisine options when visiting the island.

What to pack
A few essentials to pack include booties, mosquito repellent, sunscreen, shorty wetsuit, Lycra, and electric plug converters. But don’t fret, if you forget anything, everything is available and relatively affordable in the supermarkets.

Airport transfers
Your hotel or vacation rental can organize your airport transfer, or contact Si-On.com, who can help when flying with your own windsurf gear.

Car rental
You can rent a car from the typical car rental companies, but many people that rent you your apartment will also be able to offer a rental car together as part of the same package, as they have a special license for that as well. This is often much cheaper than a car rental company. You can also contact Si-On.com for car rentals. If bringing your own gear, you will want either a pick-up truck or be sure to ask for roof racks on your rental car to bring your windsurf gear. Mauritius is a safe country, but it is recommended to unpack your gear from your car overnight or to park within a gated driveway.

Local currency
You can exchange money at the airport, or there are ATMs that offer currency exchange at the same rate throughout the country. There are also plenty of ATMs to take out money, and you can pay with a card in most places you go.

Sim Card
You can pick up a local prepaid SIM card at the supermarket for a very reasonable price. Expect to pay about 10 EURO for 150 GB for 30 days. Be sure to bring your passport, and you can only pay in cash. Operators include My.T and Emtel.

Language
English, French, Mauritian Creole.