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Technique

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Plane earlier and accelerate by angling your torso forward, pulling down on your front hand and pushing down through the toes on the front foot.
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Continue to push out on your back hand and aim to turn your head more. Push through your front foot and pull through your back foot to scissor, steer and turn the board back down the wave.
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Absorb the bumps, go fast, and then boost some big jumps.