Antoine Albert and a few friends just scored this huge swell in New Caledonia at the notorious reef break call Tenia. Gill Chibaud was on hand with the camera to capture some amazing wave riding action. It is a mission to reach this outer reef and the winds were light so this was a tough mission.
“When we arrived to the spot, the wind was super light and a huge river current flowing in the pass from the lagoon to the ocean made a mooring impossible because the current were pushing the boats into the bowl of the wave. We had to wait for 2 hours, engine on, for the wind to pick up a bit. After those 2 hours, I decided to try anyway, rigged up, went to the line up and caught a bomb. I was super pumped up and stressed out, got a couple more before getting caught inside a first time, took 3 waves on the head and broke my boom. Luckily I had a 2nd one, went back in again, get a couple more waves before getting caught inside a 2nd time and broke my extension. The wind was so light and the waves so fast we had to catch them deep and late”.
Via: Antoine Albert