THOMAS TRAVERSA: TRANSITIONING
Big wave guru, Thomas Traversa discusses a potential midlife crisis, winning the PWA Wave World Championship and Red Bull Storm Chase in the same year, and the implications of sailing Nazaré.
Words: Thomas Traversa // Photos: John Carter, Carter/ pwaworldtour.com, Tozat photography and Siam Images.
COMPETITIVE OUTLOOK
I have reached a bit of a crossroads in my career. I feel like I am coming towards the end of my competitive side. I turned thirty-eight in December of last year… so while I am still competitive, I see that finally there is a new generation of sailors coming through and they are pushing the level, with regard to both jumping and tricks. I still feel like I want to compete because events always provide motivation to keep improving and pushing yourself, but at the same time, I feel like this is the end of my competitive career and I don’t really know what to do next. I feel like I am in a transition period, which could go either way.
On the one side, I am thinking about being able to focus on nice trips with big waves, but then on the other, it’s really hard to let go of the competitive side of the sport as it is fun to be at events also. We all meet up and it always provides you with the motivation to keep training, while trying to improve. However, I’m wary that I don’t want to compete for too long as the idea of just passing one heat at each contest doesn’t sound particularly fun or appealing.
MIDLIFE CRISIS
I never put in the time for real training at certain events like Pozo, and I am not going to start doing that now as I also have a family with three kids to consider these days. I am in a happy place in my life, but at the same time, there is also this midlife crisis circulating in my mind about what to do moving forwards. You cannot just keep going like you have been for the last twenty years. When you get older, you have to find a bit of a different way. It is quite mentally challenging for me right now to decide what to do next. I don’t want to be away too much, because with three kids, it will be a lot of work for my wife every time I am not there. I also want to spend time with my children, but at the same time, I also want to windsurf.
I feel like last winter, it was the first time that I did not do some much. My wife was pregnant and I was looking after the two other kids. We were also trying to move to Portugal and then back to France. My life was a bit all over the place, but I have no regrets. Staying with my family was the right thing to do. This winter I want to really focus and go on trips and missions like I used to. I feel like my strength has always been to just going when a forecast pops up, but over the last year I was overthinking a bit too much… I was procrastinating on forecasts and I don’t want to fall into that trap of always finding an excuse not to go.
CHASING FORECASTS
Last-minute missions are never simple. There are always different options with each storm. You know it is going to hit different places, it could be here or it could be there. You have to try and make the right decision, but you can’t just wait until the last day to make that decision as it’ll often be too late at that point already. Also, you have to try and not get too excited, too early, because the forecast can change – especially when it comes to volatile storm systems. For me personally, I usually have a few spots where I know I want to go and then when there are storms approaching, I look at the maps and try and decide which spot I think could work the best. Then I will try and look into it with a little bit more detail and I’ll start to put feelers out to see if anybody can come with me. However, it is one thing to go and just sail, but nowadays you also need somebody to come and capture the action via images or videos etc. It’s not quite as simple as just going sailing.
ALONE
I don’t mind going on the water alone. In fact, I am happy to go alone, I don’t need someone else there and I am fine with this. Actually, I think I prefer to be alone, to be honest. If I am alone, I can decide where and when I go. If I am on the water at a slab in tricky conditions, when I am alone in the water, I can really choose my waves. If I am on a swell and feel that it’s not the right one, I can let it go and simply catch the next one. However, this changes, even with just two riders on the water as you have to catch waves that you maybe wouldn’t ordinarily have taken if you were by yourself. Then you see the other guy doing something which might influence you, so overall, I find it better to be alone.
NAZARÉ – RIGHT DECISIONS, RIGHT TIME
Big wave missions are not all about the technical side on the water. It is more about making the right decisions at the right time. Usually, you don’t have so much time, but I would say the only place I 100% need a jet ski is when I sail at Nazaré, Portugal. I sailed there once without a jet ski, but that was on a small day and I would never do it again. Having a jet ski is imperative there because of the setup. You have to be responsible when you are sailing big waves – I don’t want to be the crazy guy that is taking unnecessary risks. That would not be cool there, or anywhere, as safety is paramount. The surfers are also taking a responsible approach there, so I when I ride there I try to stick to their program. Having earlier said I prefer to be alone, Nazaré is the one place where I don’t want to be in the water by myself. The jet ski is going to be on the water with you and the drivers are really focused. It is hard to put the experience into words, but it is by far the most intense place I have ever sailed. There is not one moment when you are relaxed out there. You are constantly under pressure – even when you have caught the right wave and you know you are doing the right thing. Nazaré is unique as it is the only place when you drop in that you are already thinking about how you are going to get back out. It’s game over if you get stuck on the inside and in the ratio of the number of waves ridden to broken equipment, Nazaré is the by far the worst!
If you break something at Nazaré, then you have to come into the beach and go all the way back to the harbour to be picked up by the jet ski. To this day, I am still trying to figure out whether it’s worth taking the risk trying to get back on out a bigger day, or just settling for catching one wave and heading back to the beach. In many ways it’s probably better to catch one wave, do a turn or whatever and then just head for the beach. It has to be better to do this compared to getting completely absolutely smashed and then having to go back to the beach anyway. I am still trying to figure everything out in my mind how to approach Nazaré, as just riding one wave and then coming in would feel a bit weird.
HAPPY TO SURVIVE
When Nazaré is not too big, you can ride some really nice waves. If it’s clean, there can be some really nice bowls. Most of the time when I go there, the swell is not so huge, but it is still the only place in Portugal where there are big waves. Everywhere else is going to be logo high to mast high at most, whereas Nazaré can be double mast high or even a bit more. When I have finished sailing for a day at Nazaré it feels awesome just to have survived the session, so I am always the happiest when I have made it to the end of the session.
SPECIAL SESSIONS
If I go to Nazaré, survive, and then I go and sail another big wave spot, which is cleaner and safer, then I feel more confident because I am so used to being totally on the edge at a place like Nazaré. I think it is a great way to prepare yourself for other big waves as compared to Nazaré everything else feels relatively safe and easy. When you go to Nazaré it is not like a normal windsurfing session. It is a different experience and that is why I like it. There are probably only one or two days a year when you get the opportunity to sail it. There is the iconic lighthouse and the cliff, which makes sailing there really intense and it always feels special. When I go there, I just try to concentrate on all the things that need to be done. I have to organise the jet ski, meet the guys and check the conditions, which is actually good because when I’m preparing the logistics, it prevents you from thinking too much. Then when the time comes, you arrive at the spot and just focus on riding.
BREATHING TECHNIQUES & RUNNING
I was doing some breathing exercises before my heats during competitions as I found it a great way to relax and help me get in the zone. It can put me in a better mental place, especially if I feel like I am stressed, as then I can start to think too much. When I perform the breathing routine, I focus solely on this and it provides a great feeling throughout your body. You keep taking deep breaths for several minutes and then you just hold your breath and go into a calm state. I have held my breath for almost four minutes at the most, but if you get caught by a wave, obviously you can’t hold your breath for four minutes. You can train your breathing as much as you want, but you if you can’t stay calm, then you will waste all of your oxygen very quickly. I always try and hold my breath as long as I can when I am doing the breathing exercises, which is the way I approach everything. When I go for a run, I always try to go as fast as I can. My running is also used as training for me in big waves. Running is my main training as I can run anywhere. I usually run for about forty-five minutes to an hour, but at a high intensity. I normally run quite hardcore to really push my body. I like that feeling of being on the edge as I think it helps you feel comfortable with having a high heart rate – both when competing and when sailing big waves.
IMPROMPTU CYCLING
I also cycled from Germany to Austria, which was over 600 kilometres. My wife was going to Austria and we didn’t have the kids with us, so I planned it only two days beforehand. I went to the shop and bought a couple of gear bags to go on my bike and then I just went for it. It took me five days in total. I booked five hotels along the way, so I knew how far I had to cycle each day. I covered between 100-150 kilometres each day. I had never biked before, so I knew this was going to be a good challenge. I was on a road bike and I can tell you that I was suffering a bit after the first few days, but I wanted to complete the challenge as I like to challenge myself. Whether it be sailing big waves, running or cycling, I like to go alone, so this was perfect.
UNDERDOG
When I was at my peak in 2014, I became world champion and I won the Red Bull Storm Chase in the same year, but Red Bull never approached me. Back in the day their approach was to sign young riders and make them big names. I had already done my thing, so I don’t think I fit their model. I think my profile is the opposite of what Red Bull is promoting. I was always trying to make my trips and career not too serious. My approach has always been just to do my own thing and by not taking things too seriously I was able to take some pressure off myself, which I have enjoyed. I kind of like to be the underdog and a bit of an underground type of rider. I like this style.
WORLD TITLE
The world title really meant a lot to me. I still think about it sometimes as it wasn’t something I was ever really chasing, so I never really expected it. Then when it actually happened, it was really nice. I had a feeling of accomplishment and recognition also. With this sport, a lot of people judge you in different ways, so to have this stamp on my CV as a world champion in waves was a big moment as it also takes away this kind of need of approval – especially in the world of social media. The world title helped me a lot in my career. I felt I had more confidence once I had become world champion, which helped me to continue to achieve decent results over the last decade. I think I am still here at thirty-eight-years-old because I was a world champion. It was great for the sponsors and also as a way for the general public to get to know me better. Every year I feel like when I go to different spots people recognise me and they want to come and take a picture with me, which is kind of cool. The world title definitely helped in this aspect a lot as it is nice to see that people appreciate what I do. Also, maybe when I go to a big wave location, it gives a bit more prestige to it.
LOVE OF WINDSURFING
I won’t give up windsurfing once I have finished competing. No, no, no! That is definitely not my plan. I want to keep windsurfing. I don’t think I will be going on the water every day forever, but I really love windsurfing. At the end of the day, I realise that I am happy to be with my family, I am happy going for a run, I am happy going on a bike ride, but when I go windsurfing, I am even happier. If I have a day on the water, I am definitely going to be in a good mood afterwards as I realise just how special it is.
BIG WAVE APPROACH
When I am on a big wave, I am always doing the most that I can with what is in front of me. The thing for me is, the bigger the wave, the more critical it is to be in just the right spot. You have to have the right line and then it is just going to happen. I am always looking for the most critical thing I can do, but I don’t try and do this on the first wave. I try to build into it. If the window of opportunity is there, then I will just go for it. I don’t want to go home thinking, “I didn’t hit that lip!”. It is tricky because sometimes you don’t want to go too hard, but if you don’t go hard enough then you will have this regret. It is always hard to find the right balance. I don’t want to break my gear all the time or get hurt. I don’t want to push it if it the opportunity isn’t there, but when it all comes together then that is the best feeling. I would say for somebody who has not ridden big waves, that it is almost like losing control of your car on the road. For example, if it is raining, your car might start sliding out of control, but then you manage to recover and avoid crashing. You experience a huge rush of adrenaline and this is the sort of feeling I experience when I ride a big wave. There have been numerous occasions when I have almost gotten completely destroyed by a wave, only to somehow save myself. It’s at these moments you experience that addictive surge of adrenaline, which keeps you coming back for more, flowing through your entire body.
CAPTURING MOMENTS
The bigger the waves are, the less important it becomes to me to capture it on film to show the media for me. That feeling is for me and I am just happy to survive and be alive. If it is logo to mast high, then I am trying to land the best moves I can for the camera, and I am consciously thinking about this when I am riding. Whereas the bigger it gets, the less I think about that side of things, until it gets to a point where it doesn’t even matter if somebody captured it or not. Of course it is cool because if you have a picture of it because it will help my career by keeping my sponsors happy, which enables me to keep doing what I love, but in that particular point of time, that moment is for me. When I go to Nazaré, the priority is always a solid forecast and having an experienced jet ski driver. Once I am there, have looked at the conditions and decided whether I’m going to sail or not, it is not important whether somebody is filming or not. This is also not the moment to be thinking about something like that as it is then too much of a distraction. The bigger the waves, the more it becomes about me and the less it becomes about the media. Those rides are then etched in my mind for a lifetime – even if nobody physically captures it. I will still remember it forever and I will remember the exact moment.
